Friday, October 23, 2009

October swells

This autumn had been slow with very little action in September.
Then as soon as Anthony Walsh arrived at the start of October the swell started lighting up.

We had a really exciting week of heavy little slabs, with the last day of the week proper pumpin.
It was what we all had been waiting for. There was a good crew all up for it, and everyone got some bombs. Here is a taste of the week.

Then after that good week of waves I surfed a big lump out at Aileens.
It is really funny how everyone has got really excited by a big fat lump.
It was by far the most boring surf we had all week. I am not being cocky, its just not as interesting or fun as the waves we had been surfing all week.

1 comment:

Doorly Family said...

saw your vid on surfline, ripping hard. Hope to see more of your work.