Its great to be home especially being greeted by good waves. I thought it would be a few weeks before any real swells would arrive but 1st September the waves arrived with full force of any winter swells of that size. I had been surfing Teahupoo for the past month but I swear the waves in County Clare are far heavier. I had few waves but it was real shallow and hard on the surfboard so I had a go on the boog which was mad fun.
Sunday, September 5, 2010
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